Umjine

Ask anyone in Gangneung where to eat at night, and eight out of ten will name Umjine. It calls itself a pojangmacha — a street-food tent — but the main branch has a proper indoor space. The seafood platter that lands on your table is startling in its generosity: clams, shrimp, and fish fill the tray, and the grilled fish comes with bones crisped all the way through. The atmosphere is raucous. Laughter drifts from the next table, soju glasses clink without pause. Better with two, best with four. They do not take reservations, so weekend evenings mean a queue — but the line itself is proof of the place. Open until eleven, so a late dinner works fine.